12V lead acid battery tester completed

I mentioned before I was going to make a 12 volt lead acid battery tester at one point. I’ve repurposed the single AA tester I had made back in 2017 and converted it to test higher voltage batteries. Without repeating myself from earlier posts I have just decided to keep this short and just put the 12V tester version on the original project page rather than creating a new one. It works just the same as the AA version in that it displays total runtime and approximate Ah capacity. It is a cut down version of my 24V lithium battery tester which I made for work. The original project page is here. You will want to scroll down to the latest updates section where you will find the schematic and code.

Multiplexing seven segment displays on an Arduino

I’ve made a few projects that use 7 segment displays with methods involving both using a chain of shift registers and multiplexing using the sevenseg library. In my most recent project I’d used 4x shift registers to drive 4 displays which worked well but was a pain to connect up and needlessly complicated. I have used multiplexed methods before but for only 2 or 3 digits but in my recent project that uses 5 digits the display became unacceptably dim.

This is down to how the displays are scanned – in the one shift register per digit method the data is sent to the registers and the latch enabled. 220 ohm resistors were used giving a current for each segment of around 16mA for the LED modules I’d used. For multiplexing only one shift register is used and the digits turned on and off again in sequence but done so fast the eye does not notice. This is a simpler solution and cuts down on components but it does have some things to bear in mind.

I noticed whilst looking on the internet hobbyists are having problems with dim displays and / or blown LED modules. I also noticed a lot of example schematics with LED modules directly connected to an Arduino with no current limiting resistors whatsoever. Whilst this may work well in some cases (more on this later) it’s a bad idea.

Let me explain… Continue reading →

User registration and commenting on articles on this site

I’ve had to turn off user registration due to too many spammers registering. As the anti spam system only checks when a user actually posts a comment this leaves loads of spammers that register but are unable to post. I have to manually check and remove them. Anyone can comment without registering though so if you do want to comment on anything please do; you do not have to register to be able to contribute to discussions. This does not affect genuine users that are already registered as you can post as normal.

A high capacity lithium battery tester with printout

I mentioned a while ago I had made a version of my single AA cell tester which can test high capacity LiFePO4 batteries with a nominal voltage of 24 volts (8 cells) which I had made for work as we supply 30 and 60 amp hour batteries which need to be tested. I have finally got the hardware and software version complete enough to a point where it works satisfactorily so I’m going to mention it here.

Arduino based 24V battery tester
Completed tester showing the load bank box, controller and finally the Epson TM88 printer on the top

The basics

A simple battery tester that puts a load of approximately 5 amps or 10 amps (selectable) onto a battery with a typical capacity of 30 or 60Ah. The tester displays time lasted and an approximate total amp hour / capacity reading and prints the results onto a Epson TM88 series thermal printer. An RTC is included so testing time and date can be stamped onto the result then a receipt can be given to a customer if required etc.

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Arduino pump timer with GLCD

I’ve been making a timer for my garden watering system as I have bought a few cheap timers from Amazon / Ebay in the past but they were either rubbish or went faulty within a year so I decided to make my own. I used a 240×64 graphic LCD salvaged from an old & obsolete HP 9100C digital sender which I have had in my cupboard for around 14 years. It has a standard parallel interface so can be connected to an Arduino easily. The reason behind using such an over the top LCD for such a simple device was because around 13 years ago I intended to make a status monitor for my PC using LCDStudio software to drive it. The LCD was connected to the PC’s parallel port and housed in a project box containing the negative voltage generator (more on this later) and the backlight board. Anyway needless to say I got it to work; you can find some old photos of it in the project notes.

The completed water pump timer

Like many things I never got round to actually using the status monitor partly because the LCDStudio software was not being actively developed and such didn’t work on newer operating systems. Also my new PC didn’t have legacy parallel ports and I could not get it to work with a USB to parallel converter nor a PCI-E parallel card. So it got forgotten about until I decided to see if I could get that screen working on an Arduino. To cut a long story short, I did and made a few test circuits including a text adventure game, serial terminal and a graphic LCD clock. I got bored of that adventure game and had no need for a 40 pixel wide serial terminal nor did I need another clock so I modified the clock into a water pump timer. The LCD screen uses up almost all of the pins on an Arduino Uno / Nano so it wasn’t much use to me for anything else. Said clock code came from a demo for the T6963C library which needed major modification to work on modern versions of the Arduino IDE as it was still using the .pde file extensions.

So on to further details about how I went about making it…

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Further update on battery testers

If you have been reading my blog you will have noticed I made two Arduino based NIMH AA battery testers around 2 years ago. One was the first Arduino project I made but it needed some improvement and as I had mentioned in one of my previous posts I’m really running out of things to make; I don’t want to end up with a load of gadgets I’ll never use. So I decided to revisit some of my earlier projects and either scrap / repurpose them or improve them. The second tester I made does not really need further improvement as I have already done that and it only gets used once in a while. It is sufficient for my needs so I’m not that concerned about it’s shortcomings. This one however I have plans to turn it into a 12V lead acid battery tester but for now I decided to improve the display layout and make better use of the limited 16×2 LCD.

I had already changed the voltage reference from the inaccurate voltage divider method to a TL431 2.5V reference IC so in preparation for the conversion into a 12V SLA tester I have released an updated version of the NIMH tester code with the improved display layout I plan to use for the 12V version. The project page is here.

So next update I will probably show the completed 12V SLA battery tester although I have also been working on a 24V LiFePO4 version of it too which is complete and working but again needs further improvement. That will be shown in a future blog post when I feel the code is release ready. The pump control timer I mentioned before will get a full project page too when I get round to it. The priority now is to convert the AA tester into a 12V battery tester as I have a ton of them to test.

Gas and smoke detector update

A while ago I made a rather silly project as I had a spare MQ2 sensor laying round left over from a previous experiment. I decided to build a circuit that simply displays the analog value from the sensor on a 7 segment display. It was a bit pointless but it did detect gas, farts 🙂 and smoke. I have since modified the project so it displays more meaningful results. I used an example to calculate the parts per million reading from the sensor by using a formula that works it out from the sensor’s response curve. This is found in the device’s data sheet. I still don’t expect it to be accurate but it definitely works.

I’m going to be re-visiting some of my earlier projects and either scrapping or improving them now that I have learnt more about embedded programming and Ansi C / C++.

The original post and modified code is here.

A large animated LED matrix clock with various time display modes

Clock showing pong on my AV stand

Just over 2 years ago I bought an Arduino Uno development board and began to see what I could do with it. I looked online for inspiration and came across this pong clock by Nick’s LED projects. I immediately thought now that’s cool and wanted to make one for myself and set about trying to source the parts. I had difficulty finding the LED panels used in Nick’s clock (I could only find the larger 5mm LED modules) and used ebay’s feature to email me if any of the ones I wanted became available.

I forgot about it for a while and in the meantime I made a few basic projects mainly based on someone else’s code and modified it accordingly then the email dropped in my mailbox that some of the 3mm LED matrixes were now available. I could only get red ones and they took a long time to arrive from China. I also ordered the case made from a jewelry box as suggested by Brett Oliver who is another maker who built Nick’s clock and made his own customisations to it. I don’t know why but I put those parts into a cupboard and forgot about them.

I came across them a month or two back and decided to put the clock together and make a few customisations which included changing some of the modes, adding PIR support so the display turns off when there’s no-one in the room and adding a separate 7 segment display which displays the time when the matrix is off and room temperature when matrix is on.

Anyway that’s the intro, let me show you a bit more about it:-

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I’m still here; a pong clock, SLA battery tester & crappy Chinese fakes…

Just a quick update; I’ve got a couple of electronics projects on the go which should be finished after Christmas. One is a personal project which is a modified version of an animated clock using two 24×16 modules from sure electronics. That displays some pong animations amongst other stuff. It’s still a WIP but I hope to get it completed soon. The other is a modified version of the AA battery tester I built – one of my first projects. I have changed it so that it can test LiFepo4 batteries with a nominal voltage of 24V. It can also be used to test car batteries and other high capacity lead acid batteries. It works but just needs a few tweaks.

Secondly I have returned to the 8051 microcontroller and built a replacement logic board for a 20 year old LED sign which is obsolete. This was for work not personal use so I am unable to post anything on this site about it due to IP reasons but basically the old controller board had around 30 chips on it of circa 1980 which was replaced with a board containing a Silicon Labs C8051F342 microcontroller, a RS232 chip and a couple of logic gates. The board works perfectly replicating the original sign’s functions with the added benefit of a much lower power consumption and faster updating of the displayed data. Of course the biggest benefit is we no longer have to potentially scrap 300+ signs and can continue to support them.

I’ll be posting information on the LifePO4 battery tester and pong clock in the next month or two.

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The useful TL431 chip

I haven’t made any electronics projects for a while now but I was working on some circuits at work that used a TL431 shunt regulator. This chip can be used to provide a 2.5V voltage reference and also 5V with the addition of two 10K resistors between the Ref pin and supply voltage and another to ground. A 470 ohm resistor on the input to the circuit limits current so not to damage anything. I looked at using one to improve the accuracy of one of my previous projects, an AA rechargeable battery tester.

I had made two testers based on completely different designs, the second uses the 1.1V internal reference to calculate the supply voltage which is used as a reference. The former simply uses a 10K resistor attached to the 3.3V out to the vref pin so it is nowhere near as accurate as the second tester I built. The second tester can also test up to 3 batteries at once.


Going back to the first tester I will use one of the TL431 chips to provide a 2.5V reference and hopefully that will improve accuracy as the 3.3V supply is provided by the CH340 on this clone and is far from ‘3.3V’. I don’t expect the accuracy to improve by much but it’s gonna be better than using a supply voltage as a reference as these can vary especially with cheap voltage regulators found on the Arduino clones. As the tester will only be measuring 1.5V max, 2.5V reference is enough. Unless of course you wanted to modify it to test lithium cells in which case you would need to configure the TL431 to provide a 5V reference instead.

H2S gas detector for battery charging with auto charger cut off

I posted back in January about a project I had in mind for our battery charging area at work to automatically turn off the power to the battery chargers if dangerous levels of toxic Hydrogen Sulphide were detected. The project was cancelled but resurrected about 3 months later when another battery failed releasing gas and we looked at this project again and decided it was a good idea to try building it.

Hydrogen Sulphide detector for battery charging areas.

So for the last two months I have been testing it and found that being based on a cheap MQ-136 sensor (good quality H2S sensors are very expensive) it performs reasonably well. With such a cheap sensor accurate readings of H2S are not really possible but it does detect gas and turn off the power which is exactly what we wanted it to do.

The project is based on an arduino as the controller with warning / status messages displayed on an LCD and gas level from 1-9 shown on an LED display. An alarm sounds when dangerous gas levels are present and the power to the chargers is turned off.

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British Gas Hive Thermostat no signal issues

I recently replaced my home heating controls with the Hive system from British Gas as my old system had developed a fault with the receiver not switching on the boiler intermittently due to a faulty relay contact. The Hive system worked great for about 3 months until the other day when I noticed it was cold and the heating wasn’t working.

Thinking there was a fault with the boiler I had a look but everything was OK. The Hive receiver was showing the green light indicating that everything was OK. However everything was not OK. The hive thermostat just showed “NO SIGNAL” and no amount of resetting both the thermostat nor receiver would make it work. I decided to move the thermostat next to the boiler and hey presto! It worked. Took it back downstairs and no signal again. What was going on?

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